I buy all of my OEM Honda parts from Majestic Honda as they seem to have the best prices but shipping can sometimes take awhile as they are located in Rhode Island. You have to buy the actual front bumper from your local dealership or have your body shop order it as Majestic will not ship freight to residential addresses. Total cost to do my front bumper conversion with paint was approximately $575 USD.
Important: Remove the negative terminal from the battery before performing any work on the front of the vehicle! This is done to prevent the airbags from deploying when cutting the beam or tugging on the bumper!
Required Parts List:
2004-2009 FACE, FR. BUMPER (DOT) - 04711-S2A-A92ZZ (Primed from Honda)
2004-2009 COVER, FR. TOWING HOOK *NH630M* - 71104-S2A-010ZD Note: This is the Silverstone tow hook cover, buy your color.
2004-2009 GRILLE, FR. BUMPER - 71102-S2A-010
NUT, SPEED (3.5MM) - 90301-S2A-003 - (Quantity required - 6?)
Optional Part 2004-2009 CAP, LICENSE PLATE *NH630M* - 90672-S2A-A00ZD - (Quantity required - 2) Note: These are the Silverstone license plate plugs, buy your color.
2004-2009 Splash guards - not required as you can use zip ties to attach to your old splash guards. Required if you want to install the OEM AP2 front lip. Buy these from Hartopguy.com as his are a complete kit.
Required Tools:
1/4" ratchet w/ 10mm deep socket
10mm wrench
Phillips screwdriver
Small flathead screwdriver
8" Zip ties - if you don't upgrade the splash guards
Dental floss
VHB/automotive-grade double-sided tape
Hacksaw/file or air grinder w/ cutoff wheel or dremel w/ cutoff wheels (I used a hacksaw)
Shop vac
Touch-up paint - Your color
Before painting any exterior components, it's usually a good idea to do a dry fit. Remove the 5 Phillips screws from the top of the bumper.
Use your ratchet to remove the 10 bolts on the underside of the bumper first.
Next using your 10mm wrench and socket, remove the two bolts on each side attaching the bumper to the front fenders. Lastly, turn the wheel to lock one direction and remove the Phillips screw holding the side of the bumper to the fender liner. Repeat for the other side.
Gently pull the bumper starting on one side first. It may require some force in the right areas, but it will eventually come loose. Be careful of the top brackets the hold the bumper to the fender as they can scratch the fender if you are not careful. Test fit the new bumper and make sure all of the seams line up. OEM Honda bumpers are high quality and should fit perfectly unless your car has been in an accident. Don't bother installing the fasteners as you will be taking the bumper off.
Remove the unpainted bumper and wrap it up in a sheet/plastic and take it to your painter. Make sure you give the paint shop your VIN number as some years have variances in the paint that could mean that your new bumper won't match your existing paint. Some people choose to paint the faux ducts but I chose to mask them off and leave them (I believe this is what Honda does as well). Have them either use the tow hook cover to match or have them paint it on the bumper. This is to ensure that it matches the rest of the bumper.
Once your painter has finished painting, it's time to install the AP2 front! Remove your old bumper as described before. This time, you will have to remove the license plate and brackets used to hold it on as you will be transferring them to the new bumper. Take off the license plate using your 10mm ratchet and Phillips screwdriver. You will also need to remove the tapped back brackets from the old bumper. Be careful with these as the plastic tabs holding them on can break easily.
Use the dental floss to remove your old emblem from the AP1 bumper. Use an 8" piece and wiggle it under the emblem and use it to cutoff the old double-sided tape. Once you have cleared the tape, push the emblem from the backside of the bumper to remove it.
Install the grille to the new bumper by placing it onto each plastic tab protruding from the backside of the bumper. Use your "speed nuts" to hold the grille to the bumper. Reinstall the license plate and bracket to the new bumper reverse of how you removed them. Clean the backside of the emblem and put fresh double-sided tape onto the textured portions on the back.
Important: Remove the negative terminal from the battery before performing any work on the front of the vehicle! This is done to prevent the airbags from deploying when cutting the beam or tugging on the bumper!
Note: This portion of the how-to is not required but recommended by many others who have done this conversion in the past. Now the fun part, cutting the stock bumper beam... This should be done as the corners of the AP1 bumper beam will rub on the bumper and will eventually make marks that will appear through the paint. I removed approximately 1-1.5" inches as seen below:
I used a hacksaw for mine because it was easier to control, but you can use power/pneumatic tools. Be sure to cover the headlights with duct tape and a blanket/sheet so that you don't scratch them or have hot steel pieces landing on them. As you can see above, we kept the sheet metal piece on the end as it gives some structure to the bumper beam. Also cut the foam support the same way as the bumper beam.
Vacuum up any shavings you have from cutting the corners of the bumper. Use your touch-up paint on the bare edges of the steel to prevent any rust from forming.
Now that the bumper has been painted, it's generally a good idea to be very careful and not flex it too much when reassembling. Reinstall the bumper like before but take care when snapping it into place. Once it has been fully installed and all of the fasteners tightened, move to the underside of the bumper. Use the zip ties to feed through the threaded hole in the splash guards and the holes in the bumper. If you have upgraded to the new splash guards, all of the bolts should go in.
That's it! Hook up your battery and clean up.
Before conversion:
After conversion: